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Maison Leffe & Grotte Merveilleuse, Dinant (Wallonia - Belgium)

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Can you even guess why beer was brewed a few centuries ago in Belgium and who did it??? No, it wasn't a pleasure drink like today! Well, anyone who could brew beer brewed it that even included monks and nuns! Why??? That was the only sure shot way of killing all germs in the water, because water was contaminated with germs of even the dreaded plague!!! One of the most popular brand of beer Leffe had its humble beginnings in a monastery here in Dinant!


To begin with - its a bit confusing! There are 2 different places - Maison Leffe and Abbaye Notre-Dame de Leffe. The 2 are located in the opposite directions of the railway station with 1.8km between them. The Abbaye Notre-Dame de Leffe is where originally Leffe Beer was brewed. However it is now still a functioning monastery where setting up a beer museum or beer tasting and serving tourists, would be a hindrance to the people there. Also the monastery does not produce beer anymore, but has been taken over by AB InBev. So, within the site of La Marveilleuse Resort, which is a convent converted to a hotel, a portion has now been converted to Maison Leffe - a museum that talks about the history of Leffe beer plus a bar for beer tasting as well!

Belgian beer culture is a UNESCO recognized intangible cultural heritage. One type of Belgian beer is its Abbey beer. As I mentioned earlier, all the religious centres brewed beer here for purifying water. Today, they don't do it anymore. As time went by, the brewing was taken over by others on behalf of the abbey, as well as commercialized! There are 18 such certified Abbey beers today. Leffe beer was commercialized since 1952 with a tie-up with local brewery run by Nys and Albert Lootvoet with its original recipe. This brewery was later taken over by AB InBev. Today the brewing of Leffe beer happens in Leuven along with the other brands of AB InBev in Stella Artois (read about my visit to Stella Artois Brewery). Till date, Abbaye Notre-Dame de Leffe receives royalty from AB InBev for this beer!


The Museum is now set up in  the original chapel of the original convent which is now La Marveilleuse Resort. Its quite amusing to be surrounded by church benches and stained glass windows and to listen to the history of beer brewing! It is a simple, small interactive museum with digital displays that explain the history of the abbey and brewery. There are also samples of the raw materials used and installations to explain the historical style of manufacturing beer. The bar is located opposite to the museum. The ticket includes beer tasting as well. We could opt for a full size sample of any of their beers or 3 small glasses of their 3 best beers of their choice. With our 2 tickets, we chose one of each and managed to taste 4 Leffe varieties. 

In the first pic are Leffe Brown (the authentic abbey beer with 6.5% alcohol with its dark color from darkly roasted malt), Leffe Blond (the slightly bitter version of the authentic beer with 6.6% alcohol), Leffe Radieuse (with a hint of citrus fruits & coriander seeds with 8.2% alcohol) and Leffe Rituel (with an explosion of flavours including bitter spices & banana with 9% alcohol)!

Another site very close to the resort bears the same name as the resort - Grotte la Merveilleuse or the Merveilleuse Caves. This was discovered in 1904 CE during an excavation to construct a railway line. The cave had been formed by underground river. It was originally called Grotte de Raimpaine. However simply because its formations were just marvelous, it got renamed as Grotte de Mervelliuse! Currently the property is owner by Mr. Robert Libert.

The cave is almost always at the temperature of 13 deg C which was warmer than outside when we went! The cave is 850m of various galleries of which 650m can be explored. Its accessible only by guided tour and we were guided by this very funny guy, Mr.Werner. It was an interesting walk into the cave!

Before getting to the 'Great Hall', we crossed so so many formations including little seated Buddha, bearded man (Jesus Christ?!), 3D scan of in-utero baby (no, I'm not joking, there was definitely a formation like this which freaked me out coz I had seen that hardly a year ago IRL!), and ofcourse several elephants & octopuses! There are waterfall formations where Stalactites have cascaded; there are few columns which have stalactites and stalagmites that have met and joined together - it's all super interesting! In winters, at several crevices, bats can be seen hibernating! We did spot a few by the end of autumn.
One of the earlier owners of the cave did attempt to construct a swimming pool in here and tried to pump in and pump out water. Though the pool was constructed, the water pumping never materialized! It is still there for us to see! The Great Hall till-date serves as a space for concerts and events and can hold upto around a hundred people! Guess what? How about a destination wedding in Dinant inside a cave??? 


To Get There:
To Dinant: Refer to my earlier post
On Google Maps: Maison LeffeAbbaye Notre-Dame de Leffe, Grotte la Merveilleuse
All sites are walkable from Dinant Railway Station, city centre and each other.


To Stay:
Hotels and B&Bs at all price points are available in nearest city Namur.
There are a few hotels in Dinant. Here’s my review of La Mervelliuse Resort where I stayed.

Entry Tickets & Timings:
Maison Leffe: €7; 11:00AM to 06:00PM; Oct-May: Fri-Sun only; June-Sept: Tues-Sun
Grotte la Merveilleuse: €9; Tues-Sun: Guided tours once every hour from 11:00AM to 3:00/4:00/5:00PM (in winter/autumn/summer respectively)

My complete Dinant travelogue: coming up soon...

P.S: I was invited by Wallonia Tourism to experience the city for review purposes, however the opinions are my own and this post does not to advertise the product/service.
P.S.2: Leffe beer is an alcoholic beverage. You must be of legal drinking age to consume it, as stated by your country. Excessive drinking is injurious to health. Drinking & Driving can be lethal. 

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