My visit to Greenwich in London, happened in 3 sections: As soon as I moved to London I went to the Royal Observatory and Park; then again I went to visit the Cutty Sark and Maritime Museum; towards the end of my stay, again I went there to check out the Chapel and Painted Hall! Till I moved out, I never got to see the Queen’s House which was throughout under renovation (it is open now!). Reason - All of it is under UNESCO!
The painted room is a part of the Old Royal Naval College. Originally it was built as a hospital for the seamen! It was designed by Christopher Wren, and built between in 1696-1712 CE. However by 1869 it ceased to be a hospital and by 1875, it became the college!
The most important feature of the entire hospital is ofcourse the painted ceiling, made by Sir James Thornhill between 1708 and 1727. The entire painted area covers a whopping 40,000 sq ft.
The entire painted area is in 2 sections - the long corridor or lower hall and the upper hall with its wall. The central painting of the long corridor depicts ‘Triumph of Peace and Liberty over Tyranny’. It shows King William and Queen Mary and tyranny is shown to be crushed at the foot of King Willaim! Also depicted all around them are the personification of 4 season, 12 zodiac signs, cardinal virtues and rivers.
Also depicted are mythological characters including Zeus, Medusa, Hercules etc. 4 astonomers also made it to this list incl Tycho Brahe, Copernicus, Thomas Weston with John Flamstead (in the order of the above 3 pics).
The ceiling of the upper hall depicts Queen Anne and her consort Prince George of Denmark surrounded by personification of America, Asia, Europe and Africa in the 4 directions! Also depicted are Heroic virtue, liberality, piety etc.
After getting totally mesmerized by this, I set off to my next place – the Chapel. It’s a Neo Classical (Greek Revival) masterpiece. This was built in 1751. It was destroyed in a fire in 1779 and this current Chapel was built in 1760s. Originally this was the chapel attached to the hospital meant for the seamen!
The ceiling of the chapel is a visual treat. Completely gilded in gold, it looks apt for a palace!!! The woodwork is not just stunning, but is responsible for the acoustics. Its all plaster work and not wood. However the mezzanine flooring and rails are woodwork and much more detailed. When I went, there was a Medieval chant that was running on CD and it echoed all over the church!!!
At the altar is a fresco and bang opposite to it is the organ. This is a work of Samuel Green of mid 18th C CE. From here I also headed to the Ranger’s House which is also within the UNESCO protected zone. However no photography was allowed there!
To Get There:
Nearest railway station: Cutty Sark (DLR)
Entry prices: Free at both places.
Recently Painted Hall ceiling tours have been introduced to see the see the paintings up & close at 60ft height! This tour is priced at £10.00
Can be bought online on their website.