One prime reason I wanted to visit Odisha was to see the Konark Sun Temple. Yes, it’s a UNESCO World Heritage Site! Though the original temple was built by Purandara Kesari in about 1080-90 CE, the current structure was built in 1250 CE under the reign of Eastern Ganga King Narasimha Deva. The temple is for Sun God! This is the epitome of Orissa Architecture! The marvel is that the whole temple is built in the shape of a chariot!!!
As soon as we enter is the 2 mighty monolithic Gaja-Simha (a human crushed by an elephant (gaja) which is in turn crushed by Simha (lion) on either side of the staircase! There are several philosophical and moral stories that float around about the symbolism, as explained by many guides, but none have proof. The extremely ridiculous things I’ve read about Konark include that presence of a magnet in the Siva Lingam that made a crystal above float… to the sunrays falling on the lingam 365 days a year (yeah, more often it’s a digitally altered image of Angkor Vat that accompanies these claims!)!! Big no, again none of these have any proof! The temple continued to be in worship till 1570s, as mentioned in Ain e Akbari! However by 1573, Kalapahad raided Konark and the building fell into disuse. By 1620s the dieties here were shifted to Purushotama temple. After that over time, with lack of maintenance, the Deula / Tower collapsed! The architecture is of typical Orissan style with a Nata mandira, Jagmohana and the towering Deula! The towering Deula (perhaps the tallest when it stood) in black stone was in pure contrast to Puri Jagannath temple’s Deula which was painted white - naming them Black Pagoda and White Pagoda. These were used extensively for navigation for sea traders! By 1824 CE, only a small portion of the Deula was still standing which too collapsed by 1848 CE. By 1901 CE, Sir John Woodburn (when India was still under British raj) took the ultimate step to preserve the Jagmohana which was still standing – to close all the doors permanently, drill a hole atop and fill the whole structure with sand! It took 3 years to do it and till date, its standing safe! Soon after you enter is the Natamandira, whose platform and pillars are still standing, but without a ceiling! A walk around the platform is just breath taking – there are soldiers, dancers, musicians, erotic poses, hunting scenes in slots surrounded by minute filigree work – all in stone!!! I don’t know who that gentleman is, but I didn’t crop him out of the picture, so you have an idea of the size we’re talking about!!! On the platform are 16 (4 x 4) pillars, all carved again with beautiful women and mystical beings!
From there somehow I manage pull myself to Sun God’s chariot shaped Jagamohana! The main structure seen today as the Konark Sun Temple is only the Jagmohana which was what was filled with sand! Again here, instead of climbing the staircase, I first went around it! Being chariot shaped, it has wheels all around it and horses in front of it. There are 7 horses (4 on one side and 3 on another), named after each color of VIBGYOR (except B incl white), of which only one is in an almost complete state.![]()
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To Stay:At a walkable distance from Konark Sun Temple is the Yatrinivas Konark, run by Orissa Tourism Development Cooperation (OTDC). Prices begin at ₹1100 for AC double room.Konark has few hotels & lodges. Puri & Bhubaneshwar has several hotels at all price points.Puri also has an OTDC run hotel, Panthanivas Puri, on the beach, perfect to see sunrise, at a walkable distance from Puri Jagannath Temple. Prices begin at ₹2300 for AC double room.
To Get There:
From Bhubaneshwar airport: 63km
From Puri Railway station: 35km
Entry Ticket: Rs.30 for Indians & SAARC nationals, Rs.500 for other foreigners.
