To begin with I hardly had any time left after seeing the Baptistery and anyways I didn’t expect anything out of the Campasanto other than some tombstones and tablets. I hardly had 1 hr left when I entered the Campasanto and I was just mindblown.
The basic structure of the Camposanto is as usual, a square shaped one. One portion of the wall has some marble sculptures and guess what, these were the originals of the cast that I saw in Florence Uffizi Gallery! The whole corridor was filled with sarcophagi along the walls. There are ofcourse arches all along the wall like any other cemetery.
But that’s not the eye-catching factor! The entire wall is completely filled with murals, though not in a great condition & eroded a lot, it was just awesome!
It was built in 1277 and the frescoes were made in 14th C by Francesco Traini and Bonamico Buffalmacco. At that very moment I came to know that fact, I realized I was standing in front of frescoes that were older than Michelangelo’s Sistine Chapel which were painted in 16th C!!! Most of the subjects I did not understand and were from the Old Testament and the saints of Pisa!
One particular panel that totally caught my attention was this panel about hell. Centrally places was a monster and all around it were humans going through various torture techniques in hell incl holding their own severed head, standing with their intestines pulled out, being fried and barbecued, being eaten by dragons and snakes – it was just gruesome at its worst!!!
There was also a nativity scene and the Adoration of Magi. Another scene that I could understand was the building of Babylon! Especially the way the buildings and architecture was depicted was awesome. Reminded me much of Ajanta Frescoes though this more than a millennium newer!!!
There are a couple of tiny chapels and a major chapel in this place. The 2 tiny chapels are called Chapel Ammannati and Chapel Aulla. Atop one of the tiny chapels was this outline design. I think the artist gave up before completing it! Then is the spectacular other chapel called Dal Pozzo.
The moment I stepped into this Chapel, it was altogether a different feel. It was originally commissioned by archbishop of Pisa Carlo Antonio Dal Pozzo in 1594. Right above is the dome with the 4 Gospels painted in 4 corners. The shrine is of St.Jerome and has his Mural painted on the altar.
Later in 2009, this became the Cathedral of relics and today it houses a whooping 80 relics including - eleven of the twelve Apostles, two fragments of the True Cross, a thorn from the Crown of Thorns of Christ and a small piece of the dress of the Virgin Mary. The entire place was golden in color. It was just mind blowing!
As I said in the beginning, all I had was just 1 hr at Camposanto and the place was a pandora’s box for anyone who’s interested in art and history - murals, sculptures, relics, it was just too much for 1 hr!!!! Esp. the murals themselves need half a day!!!
To get there, tickets etc: Refer to my earlier post
P.S: I was invited by Opa Pisa to experience the Pisa Cathedral, Baptistery, Museum & Camposanto for review purpose, however the opinions are my own and this post does not to advertise the product/service.