From Bungalow on the Beach, I wanted to go on both North towards Poompuhar & South towards Karaikal which were filled with so so so many ancient temples!!! I hired a car and set out. Of all the places I saw, the most important 3 were Pallavaneeshwaram Excavations, Ponsei Temple and Valampura Nathar Temple.
From there, my next stop was Sembanarkoil. The Lord Shiva here is Swarnapuriswarar and His consort is Maruvarkuzhali or Sugundhakundhalambikai. The temple has lost it old charm. The inscriptions in the outer wall had been whitewashed and someone had realized its importance and has scratched it off! It is surrounded by concrete shrines in which the ancient idols are preserved.
A relief sculpture in one of the shrines shows the king in devotion with a saint and minister! The stand-alone sculptures of Saptamatrika and Jyesta Devi are just stunning! With the presence of these 2 (one of the oldest forms of worship in Hinduism), it is presumed to be built by Aditya Chola I. There are 6 inscriptions here of Chola Dynasty belonging to Kulothunga Chola, Rajathiraja Chola and King Sarfoji.
A relief sculpture in one of the shrines shows the king in devotion with a saint and minister! The stand-alone sculptures of Saptamatrika and Jyesta Devi are just stunning! With the presence of these 2 (one of the oldest forms of worship in Hinduism), it is presumed to be built by Aditya Chola I. There are 6 inscriptions here of Chola Dynasty belonging to Kulothunga Chola, Rajathiraja Chola and King Sarfoji.
Our next stop was Ponsei, followed by Thirukadaimudi Mahadevar Temple. The Lord Shiva here is Kadaimudinathar or Annisamrakshaneeswarar and His consort is Abhirami. It’s a smaller temple and the whole ground has been paved with cement, enclosed in concrete walls and iron grills.
Next was the Pallavaneeswaram Excavations. For anyone who knows about Tamil History, would know of Silappadhikaram. It’s one of the 5 Great Tamil Epics written by Ilango Adigal in 2nd-3rd C CE, where all the main characters where Buddhists and the setting is in Poompuhar. However today, Buddhism and Poompuhar don’t really match and I’ve always wondered about the ancient Tamil Buddists! Recent excavation in Poompuhar has revealed a Buddha Vihara in ruins! It’s maintained by Archaeological Survey of India.
Our next stop was Pallavaneeswara Swamy Temple. The Lord Shiva here is Pallavaneeswarar and His consort is Sowndaranayaki. Sambandhar has sung hymns here! We stopped next at Chayavaneswarar Temple. The Lord Shiva here is Chayavaneshwarar and His consort is Kuyilinum Nanmozhiyammai. This place has been mentioned in the Agananuru as well!!!
Just behind this temple is the temple of the village diety of Sampathiamman! She is one of the oldest dieties of Tamil culture. Its more of a village diety than a properly maintained temples. Though the original temple is one of the oldest, the current sculpture is probably just a couple centuries old. Next was the Valampura Nathar temple.
Our morning section ended with Thalachankadu. Sambandhar has sung hymn on this temple. The Lord Shiva here is Sankaaranyeswarar and His consort is Soundaranayaki.
Our morning section ended with Thalachankadu. Sambandhar has sung hymn on this temple. The Lord Shiva here is Sankaaranyeswarar and His consort is Soundaranayaki.
For the evening section, we went southwards and began with Thiruvettakudy. I could have just shed my tears in this temple. It has totally lost its old beauty and architecture. The entire temple is new and the whole of interiors is paved with tiles!!! Even the friezes of relief sculptures were painted upon!!! The bronzes here were stunning esp of Lord Shiva and Parvathi as hunters!!!
Next stop was Karai Koilpatthu and it was just a stunning huge temple! The sheer size of it and the number of sculptures inside were so many! It has a tall Gopuram. The Lord Shiva here is Parvathiswarar or Sameevaneswarar and His consort is Suyamvara Thapaswini. The main bronze sculpture is of Lord Shiva as a hunter (Kiraadhamurthy). The other bronzes incl Somaskandar were also gorgeous!
We completed the day with Karaikal Ammaiyar Temple. This is a new temple built in 1929. Her legend is so extraordinary in Saivaite tradition (Lord Shiva Himself called her Ammai, which means Mother) that there would be a bronze of her in many temples. Realizing that there's no dedicated temple to Karaikal Ammaiyar in her own town, this was built!
P.S.1: All temples mentioned in this post (except Pallavaneeswaram Excavation, Sampathiamman temple & Karaikal Ammayar Temple) are பாடல் பெற்ற ஸ்தலம் (paadal petra sthalam) meaning, has hymns sung on them atleast one of the 4 Saivaite Saints called Nalvar (Appar, Sundarar, Manikkavasagar, Thirungyana Sambandar). They were religious (specifically Lord Shiva) Tamil poets who lived in 6th to 9th C CE. Hymns sung by them on these temples are proof of existence of these temples since then!!!
P.S.2: At Karaikal, don't forget to try out the Paruthi Paal Halwa at Nagoor Alwa Kadai! Paruthi Paal is the milk of Cotton Seeds! Its a local delicacy and its yummm!!!
P.S.2: At Karaikal, don't forget to try out the Paruthi Paal Halwa at Nagoor Alwa Kadai! Paruthi Paal is the milk of Cotton Seeds! Its a local delicacy and its yummm!!!
To get there:
On Google Maps: Akkur Thanthondriswarar, Sembanarkoil, Ponsai, Thirukadaimudi Mahadevar Temple, Pallavaneeswaram Excavation, Pallavaneeswara Swamy Temple, Chayavaneswarar Temple, Sampathiamman Temple, Valampura Nathar Temple, Thalachankadu, Thiruvettakudy, Karai Koil Pathu, Karaikal Ammaiyar Temple, Nagoor Alwa Kada
Contact number of the temple priests:
Akkur Thanthondriswarar - +91 97877 09742; +91 75022 22850
Sembanarkoil - +91 99437 97974 (Mr.Muthukumar)
Ponsai - +91 96989 50011 (Mr.Sambandhakumar)
Thirukadaimudi Mahadevar Temple - +91 94876 73261; +91 4364 283261 (Swaminatha Kurukkal)
Pallavaneeswara Swamy Temple - +91 94437 19193 (Mr.Ravi); +91 99446 65998 (Mr.Prabhu)
Chayavaneswarar Temple - +91 94431 07069 (Mr.Chandrashekhar)
Valampura Nathar Temple - +91 94428 60605 (Pattu Kurukal); +91 97877 09754 (Mr.Radhakrishnan)
Thalachankadu - +91 94434 01060 (Mr.Balachandran)
Thiruvettakudy - +91 98658 45102 (Ramesh Kurukkal)
Karai Koil Pathu - +91 97866 35559
Akkur Thanthondriswarar - +91 97877 09742; +91 75022 22850
Sembanarkoil - +91 99437 97974 (Mr.Muthukumar)
Ponsai - +91 96989 50011 (Mr.Sambandhakumar)
Thirukadaimudi Mahadevar Temple - +91 94876 73261; +91 4364 283261 (Swaminatha Kurukkal)
Pallavaneeswara Swamy Temple - +91 94437 19193 (Mr.Ravi); +91 99446 65998 (Mr.Prabhu)
Chayavaneswarar Temple - +91 94431 07069 (Mr.Chandrashekhar)
Valampura Nathar Temple - +91 94428 60605 (Pattu Kurukal); +91 97877 09754 (Mr.Radhakrishnan)
Thalachankadu - +91 94434 01060 (Mr.Balachandran)
Thiruvettakudy - +91 98658 45102 (Ramesh Kurukkal)
Karai Koil Pathu - +91 97866 35559