Since my planned visit to Florence Duomo got flopped, I had quite a bit of time left in Florence to see something else after Uffizi. However I didn't want to go somewhere and get delayed for my bus to Pisa. So I opted to go to the Bus Depot instead. But then when I reached the Bus Depot, very close to it was this Church. So it was by chance, that I visited this Santa Maria Novella and I was & am glad that I did. Going by its name, I thought it would be a new church but..........
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The church was originally called Novella, because there was old chapel in the same site called Santa Maria delle Vigne of 9th C CE. This 'new' church was built in 1221 and I was so fooled by its name!!!! Plus this also comes under the Historic Centre of Florence UNESCO Sites!!!!! I honestly got lost in its beauty and antiquity. There was so much to see in the church that, at that point, I felt pressed for time!!! Each and every wall was filled with frescoes of 13-15th C CE (we're talking about something that pre-dates renaissance and ofcourse Michelangelo's Sistine Chapel!). If you're an art buff or into art history, this place is a treasure trove.
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In 1219 CE, it was designed by Dominican Frairs as a simple church. Later on in 1279 CE, the present huge facade with all its marble detailing and adjacent convent which all got ready by mid 14th C CE. My first impression as soon as I got in - its so huge and every bit of the wall and ceiling is covered with frescoes. Behind the main altar are 3 huge stained glass windows. The frescoes all around are by Domenico Ghirlandaio made in 1485-90 incl a gorgeous Coronation of Madonna with angels, prophets and saints.
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On either sides are 2 more altars and on the 2 sides are 2 more chapels all filled with frescoes. In Capella Maggiore, the entire life of Mary is painted since her birth to presentation to temple, wedding to Joseph, her adoration, birth of St John, baptism of Jesus & more.
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At some places the frescoes are so worn out incl a coronation of Madonna painted in 1335 in Western Transept. The Gaddi Chapel has frescoes of Giovanni Antonio Dosio in 1575-77. However these too were very worn out.
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Chapel Rucellai has frescoes of 1310 to 1540 painted by various artists. How is the sculpture above??? Well, that's a painting too!!!
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Most of the nave is restored with the original frescoes forming panels in them. Along the walls are certain tiny chapel like structures with small stained glass windows and frescoes. On the facade, atop is a circular stained glass window depicting the Coronation of Virgin made by 1365 by Andrea di Bonaiuto. Around the door are fresco panels of Nativity and Annuciation made between 1366 - 1592 by multiple artists.
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The cloisters are also painted and the crypt is filled with tombstones as usual. Then I went to the Spanish Chapel and..................... I didn't want to get out of it!!! This was originally the Chapter House of the monastery.
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Every bit of it was so well painted. On one wall of Triumph of St Thomas, story of St.Peter Martyr, Ascension of Christ, Scenes of Earthly life, Passion of Christ all by Andrea di Bonaiuto in 1365-67.
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Remember the good old 9th C CE church? After that a 2nd church was built in 1094. The present structure is the 3rd. There are remnants of that 1094 church below the present church at the nave. At one point on the right when you're in front of the altar, is a glass floor below which the old structure is visible.
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It was a blessing in disguise that my visit to Duomo got flopped. I got to see the awesomeness of this church and guess what, there were hardly 20-25 people in this church when I was there and I got to see each and every fresco at my own pace and space!
To Get There:
Nearest Metro Station: Santa Maria Novella
Nearest Bus Station: Santa Maria Novella
Entry Fee: €5