One of the 2 most important sites in the whole of Hampi is Virupaksha Temple. We entered though the East Gopuram which is the main entrance! Inside, there's a stand for shoes and the ticket counter. Just beneath the Gopuram, unlike the usual flat roof, this one has the Islamic inspiration with pointed arch roof.
As soon as you enter in, on the left is a small 3 headed Nandi. This was the original Nandi and since one of its heads was broken, it was replaced with 3 different Nandi. To the right is the symbol of Vijayanagara Empire (wild boar and inverted sword).
As soon as you enter in, on the left is a small 3 headed Nandi. This was the original Nandi and since one of its heads was broken, it was replaced with 3 different Nandi. To the right is the symbol of Vijayanagara Empire (wild boar and inverted sword).
The Maha Mandapa of this temple was the very reason this was atop the list of all sites in Hampi. There atop - on the ceiling of Maha Mandapa - is a gorgeous carpet of Murals - all painted in the Vijayanagara Period!!! I was totally spellbound by the beauty of these paintings. My original idea was to just sit and lie down there and just enjoy the beauty, while my guy would check out the rest of the temple but once I was there, I couldn't be alone - thanks to the monkeys there!!! Yes, there are too many. One did jump over my guy's backpack!!!
Over to the ceiling - bang at the centre was the lotus relief as usual and on either sides of it were Manmandha Vijayam and Tripurantaka! Manmadha Vijayam is the scene where Manmadha or Kamdev shoots the arrow of lust onto meditating Shiva. Accompanying him is Rati, his wife. Shiva is shown as a absolute ascetic with matted locks, snakes around him and an anthill built around him.
On the other side is my favourite Tripuranka! This was an absolute stunner. This is the scene where Lord Shiva as Tripurantaka is destroying the 3 citadels (tri-pura) of evil. His bow is the Mount Meru, the bow's string is the snake Vasuki (depicted here with 5 heads), and the arrow is Lord Vishnu (depicted here thrice to form the length of the arrow). His chariots wheels are sun & moon and his charioteer is Brahma (shown with all 4 heads), and has 5 horses pulling it! The fierceness in his face, complete with the mustache is just impeccable!
Above this is the scene of marriage of Shiva and Parvathi. They're accompanied by Brahma, Vishnu, Saraswati, Himavant (Parvathi's father), Tumburu, Naradha, Veerabadhra, Bhringi, Nandhi and Ganesha. Atop this (the farthermost from the Sanctum Sanctorum) is the Trimurthi of Vishnu, Shiva and Brahma with their respective wives on their lap flanked by their respective DemiGods incl Tumburu, Naradha, Nandi, Garuda etc.
Just above the central panels is the Ashta Dikbalas and below the central panel is the Dasavathara. If you can really strain your eyes and see, on either sides of the Dasavathara are Rathi and Manmadha mounted on a horse and elephant respectively. The speciality - the horse and elephant are composite images made of multiple women (remember Thirukurungudi?!).
Below the Dasavathara is the panel of Rama and Sita's wedding at the centre. On either sides is the Swayamvara of Rama and Arjuna! Esp the Arjuna one has been depicted so perfectly with his very difficult archery contest of having to accurately shoot the circling fish in the ceiling, while looking at its reflection in bowl of water on the ground!!! Here's the whole ceiling documented in high res by IIACD.
The pillars here are just incredible with full height Simha (lion) with the soldiers sitting on its back! Complete with the pushpa podhigai (floral details on the pillar corbels), pretty much reminding me of Avudaiyar Koil, Tirunelveli! Another feature just Avudaiyar Koil was the Kodungaigal - the tiled terracotta roof simulation!!
After spending too much time here, I was pulled away by my guy and our guide so we can see the rest of the temple as well. After a darshan of the Lord Shiva here as Virupaksha, he headed to the Devi's shrine. The lathe pillars here made of black stone is perfectly Hoysala! The ceiling and the doorjamb are made of wood and are exquisitely ornamental! Close to it, again on the ceiling is a panel of fresco, but this is heavily damaged unlike the Maha Mandapa ceiling!
Further ahead, what I witnessed was just astonishing - A pinhole camera in architecture!!! Through a piece of missing stone on a wall, facing the Gopuram, an inverted image of the Gopuram is formed on the opposite wall inside the building!!! I did try my best to take a photo without shaking too much, but with such the darkness inside, this is all I could do! The inverted image wasn't really in-focus, it was bit blurred by itself!
On the outer wall of the Sanctum Sanctorum were some interesting relief sculptures like Hazara Rama Temple incl Crab worshiping Lord Siva, Elephant & snake worshiping Lord Shiva, Kannappa nayanar etc.
The main Eastern gopuram is 52m tall and has 9 stories. This was probably built in the period of Deva Raya II in 1422-46. The inner gopura & Maha Mandapa was probably built in 1510 by Krishna Deva Raya!
Bang opposite to the Eastern Entrance is the main Hampi Bazaar which extends to about 650m! This is one very wide bazaar where merchant & buyers moved with their horses and elephants at times. Horses were also sold in these bazaars. Some portions were 2 storied where the upper floor was used a storage space!!! It must have been a buzzing commercial street few centuries ago! Today its serves shade and resting place for the tired travelers! We had our lunch here. A portion of this Bazaar serves as a museum and another portion serves as the local police station!!! At the end of the Bazaar is the huge Monolith Nandi, facing Virupaksha!!!
Just above the central panels is the Ashta Dikbalas and below the central panel is the Dasavathara. If you can really strain your eyes and see, on either sides of the Dasavathara are Rathi and Manmadha mounted on a horse and elephant respectively. The speciality - the horse and elephant are composite images made of multiple women (remember Thirukurungudi?!).
Below the Dasavathara is the panel of Rama and Sita's wedding at the centre. On either sides is the Swayamvara of Rama and Arjuna! Esp the Arjuna one has been depicted so perfectly with his very difficult archery contest of having to accurately shoot the circling fish in the ceiling, while looking at its reflection in bowl of water on the ground!!! Here's the whole ceiling documented in high res by IIACD.
The pillars here are just incredible with full height Simha (lion) with the soldiers sitting on its back! Complete with the pushpa podhigai (floral details on the pillar corbels), pretty much reminding me of Avudaiyar Koil, Tirunelveli! Another feature just Avudaiyar Koil was the Kodungaigal - the tiled terracotta roof simulation!!
After spending too much time here, I was pulled away by my guy and our guide so we can see the rest of the temple as well. After a darshan of the Lord Shiva here as Virupaksha, he headed to the Devi's shrine. The lathe pillars here made of black stone is perfectly Hoysala! The ceiling and the doorjamb are made of wood and are exquisitely ornamental! Close to it, again on the ceiling is a panel of fresco, but this is heavily damaged unlike the Maha Mandapa ceiling!
Further ahead, what I witnessed was just astonishing - A pinhole camera in architecture!!! Through a piece of missing stone on a wall, facing the Gopuram, an inverted image of the Gopuram is formed on the opposite wall inside the building!!! I did try my best to take a photo without shaking too much, but with such the darkness inside, this is all I could do! The inverted image wasn't really in-focus, it was bit blurred by itself!
On the outer wall of the Sanctum Sanctorum were some interesting relief sculptures like Hazara Rama Temple incl Crab worshiping Lord Siva, Elephant & snake worshiping Lord Shiva, Kannappa nayanar etc.
The main Eastern gopuram is 52m tall and has 9 stories. This was probably built in the period of Deva Raya II in 1422-46. The inner gopura & Maha Mandapa was probably built in 1510 by Krishna Deva Raya!
Bang opposite to the Eastern Entrance is the main Hampi Bazaar which extends to about 650m! This is one very wide bazaar where merchant & buyers moved with their horses and elephants at times. Horses were also sold in these bazaars. Some portions were 2 storied where the upper floor was used a storage space!!! It must have been a buzzing commercial street few centuries ago! Today its serves shade and resting place for the tired travelers! We had our lunch here. A portion of this Bazaar serves as a museum and another portion serves as the local police station!!! At the end of the Bazaar is the huge Monolith Nandi, facing Virupaksha!!!
Entry Ticket: Rs.5
Camera: Rs.50
To Get There:
From Bangalore: 343km via NH48 & NH50
From Hyderabad: 373km via NH44
From Goa: 316km via NH67
From Pattadakkal (another UNESCO site): 135km via NH50
These sites are covered in The Virupaksha Trail organized as a guided tour by Orange County Resort.
Each trail costs Rs.1000/- per head as a group.
If you want it exclusive just for you it costs Rs.4000/- for 2 trails (+ Rs.1000/- incl vehicle).
If you want a guide for yourself for the whole day it costs Rs.8000/-
Otherwise, KSTDC certified guides (they carry an ID card mentioning the same) can be hired at the Tourism Office or Ticket Office located in the premises of Virupaksha Temple, Sasivekalu Ganesha and Vittala Temple. The prices are Rs.1200 for 2-3hrs and Rs.1700 for 5-6hrs for upto 3 persons. For a larger group, the price would be higher. Also they are highly adaptable to your requirements / interest area etc and they could also meet you at your hotel and begin from there!
Ph no: of Prakash, one of the certified guides: +91 94820 61626
Otherwise, KSTDC certified guides (they carry an ID card mentioning the same) can be hired at the Tourism Office or Ticket Office located in the premises of Virupaksha Temple, Sasivekalu Ganesha and Vittala Temple. The prices are Rs.1200 for 2-3hrs and Rs.1700 for 5-6hrs for upto 3 persons. For a larger group, the price would be higher. Also they are highly adaptable to your requirements / interest area etc and they could also meet you at your hotel and begin from there!
Ph no: of Prakash, one of the certified guides: +91 94820 61626
Dedicated to Venkat